Acne Skin

A) Internal:
1. Genetic
2. Hormonal
3. Stress (emotional)
4. Poor diet
5. Certain drugs (e.g. cortisone)

B) External:
1. Lack of personal hygiene'
2. Topical pressure or friction through restrictive clothing
3. Comedogenic creams and cosmetics

In most cases acne is the result of an internal malfunction manifesting as a symptom on the face, chest and back. This is often aggravated externally through improper management and the wrong kinds of products.

Appearance

1. Thick, coarse skin with extended follicular orifices
2. Oily, shiny surface
3. Blocked orifices and small white lumps under skin - open and closed comedones
4. Papules that are red and swollen
5. Pustules with white or yellow-tinged centers
6. Deep-seated painful lumps (nodules and/or cysts)

Touch

1. Rough
2. Swollen (inflamed)
3. Greasy

The symptoms in #4 and #5 above describe a classic poly-morphic acne condition. This may, however, differ with each individual. Some people may develop only one or two types of lesions, and the skin surface may often appear dry due to excessive use of drying agents.

A) a.m.

1. Wash with purifying, cleansing product.
2. Apply antiseptic lotion (Oily Skin Lotion).
3. Moisturize with a product containing antiseptic and healing properties (e.g. Creme Hydratane or Lurophase).
4. Omit makeup if possible.

B) p.m.

1. Cleanse as above.
2. Gently apply a deep-pore cleanser over comedones (e.g. Silica Soap); repeat 2-3
   times weekly.
3. Apply antiseptic lotion as above.
4. Apply anti-bacterial serum together with a cell reproducing cream .

C) Weekly

1. Steam over comphrey or thyme herbs.
2. Follow with application of absorbent mask.
3. Exfoliate 2-3 times weekly.

After treatment has been introduced, an initial worsening of the condition can occasionally be observed. This is normal, as all existing acne lesions have to work through their cycles. Clients should be made aware of this transition, and weekly deep-cleansings are suggested.

For decades, cosmetic ingredients have been tested for their levels of comedo-genicity; the rabbit's ear has been used for these studies. Results are often imprecise, however, since the rabbit ear differs histologically from human skin. In addition, ingredients tested individually can show different readings than when combined. Each individual's tolerance to a specific product may also vary.

1. Lavender: which is both antiseptic and soothing.
2. Thyme: which is bactericidal, produces hyperemia and stimulates peripheral blood
   circulation.
3. Mint, thyme and camphor: act as solvents on fats.
4. Yeast, mineral extracts, halibut liver oil and trace elements.

1. Avoid fried foods, butter, cheeses, whole milk, ice cream, rich salad dressings, chocolate, fatty meats, anything from cocoa or coffee beans, other stimulants, sweets and processed nut products.
2. Include fresh fruit, plenty of water, fresh and cooked vegetables, lean meats, broiled fish, chicken, whole-grain cereals and other complex carbohydrates. The diet should allow regular bowl movements.
3. Foods containing bromides, iodine and caffeine stimulate the endocrine system, which in turn increases the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous gland.
4. Vitamin A and Zinc supplements can be helpful, but be sure the client is aware of the proper dosage.

A) Puberty
One of the first events in that period of life known as puberty is the secretion of certain gonadotrophic hormones by the anterior pituitary gland. The target organs of these gonadotrophins are the gonads, i.e. the ovaries in woman or the testes in man. In addition, the adrenal cortex is stimulated to action at around the same time. Both these glands, the adrenal cortex and the gonads, are encouraged to excrete large quantities of steroid hormones into the circulatory system. In the male, the influence of adrenal hormones on bodily changes is overshadowed by the action of the testicular hormones. In the female, the female estrogens produced by the ovaries work in conjunction with the male androgens from the adrenal cortex to create secondary sex characteristics. This sudden surge of male hormones (called androgens) in both sexes results in bodily hair growth as well as increased oil flow from the sebaceous glands. This increase in oil flow does not automatically lead to acne, but it sets the stage and no acne is possible without it. Only a small amount is needed to prod the oil glands, and it is impossible to distinguish the androgen levels of acne patients from those of clear skinned types.

B) Heredity
People with chronically oily skin and lingering acne have been found to harbor an especially active enzyme that converts testosterone, one of the androgens, into a more potent form called dihydrotestosterone. This is the factor directly responsible for releasing more oil. It is thought that if the effects of dihydro-testosterone on the sebaceous glands could be counteracted then acne could be controlled. The challenge lies in accomplishing this without tampering with the body's normal hormone makeup. Genes are also believed to play a stage setting role, since acne and its degree of severity often run in families. Heredity can help determine the amount of oil your body produces, the kind of bacteria nesting in your glands, the strength of your follicle walls, and other factors linked to either your resistance or your susceptibility.

C) Acne in Adulthood
Occasionally the onset of acne in adulthood can signal the presence of pituitary, adrenal, or ovarian tumors. The condition will usually be accompanied by other signs of excess androgen or erratic hormone activity: irregular menstrual periods, the growth of facial hair, and deepening of the voice. Other factors, if not direct causes, may aggravate an already existing case of acne. In cases of anxiety and stress, the body signals the pituitary gland to release more of its hormones to meet the challenge. These, in turn, stimulate the adrenal cortex to pour more androgens into the bloodstream. Since people vary in their tolerance to extra androgens, not everyone under pressure will have an acne flare-up. But stress will put those who are susceptible at higher risk. Stress can also lead to nervous scratching and picking of the face, which can irritate pimples and drive them deeper into the skin. To complicate matters, it has been found that the output of fatty acids is also increased during stress.

D) Pregnancy and Menopause
Hormonal changes in women during pregnancy and menopause are also contributing factors in oil secretion and hair growth since hormones produced by the ovaries have an inhibiting effect on the anterior pituitary. If secretion from the ovaries is affected in any way, there may be lack of control over the pituitary gland. This can result in a hyperstimulation by pituitary hormones of the adrenal cortex, which in turn can produce an excess of androgens, which in turn can produce an excess of androgens, which can lead to excessive oil production and hair growth.

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