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Alipic Skin | |||
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Alipic Skin - Dry Skin |
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| Definition of Alipic Skin There are two types of skin dryness. These conditions often co-exist, contributing toward the predisposition to wrinkles, dehydration and irritation. A skin may become dry because it has lost its superficial moisture. This can happen, even on skins that produce too much oil. The surface of the skin feels taut, is flaky and often slightly itchy. (See Dehydrated Skin) The second condition, which is more problematic, is know as "alipoid", where the oil glands don't produce enough sebum. This is the true form of underactive skin. The skin often looks normal to fine in texture, but it is dull. The follicles are quite invisible. This skin is delicate, easily irritated and rough. It may be prone to reddening or may be quite sallow (yellowish). It usually feels tight. This type of underactive skin in young and pre-menopausal women is not normal and its causes, treatment and nature are highly individual. In addition to not producing enough oil, there is not enough perspiration being secreted, as the problem lies with a generally lowered rate of metabolism. The horny layer needs both sebum and perspiration in adequate amounts, along with moisture from the atmosphere, to make its magic mix of protective film.  | |
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| Considerations of Alipic Skin The underactive skin is doubly at risk. It potentially lacks the two most important defenses against premature aging: lubrication to keep it supple and the ability to hold moisture. A) Correct Cleansing: Probably the most fundamental tool in maintaining skin health and beauty is cleansing, if done correctly. It is important to avoid harsh cleansers such as soaps, detergents (anything that foams), oil-free, perfumed cleansers and certain water-soluble cleansers since they all favor the removal of sebum. Also hot water, especially from showers, should be avoided since the heat and friction removes the sebum and invites capillary damage. Warm water only should be used on the face. Astringent toners, (those containing alcohol) should be avoided since they strip sebum and aggravate the capillaries. Scrubs should also be avoided since they break down cell cohesion in the horny layer, reducing the skin's capacity to retain moisture. And finally, dry the face after washing. By allowing the skin to dry by evaporation, we are creating conditions for chapping. If you must use atomized mineral waters, which have no real value other than to feel refreshing, be sure to blot the face dry. B) Sufficient Lubrication and Protection on a Routine Basis: It is very important to lubricate alipic skin because this is what protects from the climatic conditions that we have no control over. Sun, wind, cold, heat and seasonal changes, produce the atmospheric conditions that remove moisture from the skin. Artificially heated and/or air-conditioned buildings and airplanes tend to be very arid. Exposure to the elements is the biggest factor in skin aging. Unfortunately, for true dry skin types, the most popular moisturizers are the oilemulsified in a large amount of water variety. They are very light in texture, sometimes even milky, and absorb readily into the skin. The skin feels softer, but once the water evaporates, there is not sufficient fat or oil in the moisturizer to protect the skin. In fact, the skin is left utterly unprotected, because the oil-in-water emulsion also has the property of absorbing oils on the skin's surface and degreasing the skin! In overactive skin it aggravates reactive seborrhea, but for true dry skin it spells disaster. In order for a cream to restrict the evaporation of moisture from the horny layer and actually protect against climatic factors, there must be a sufficient layer of fat, that is also at to mix with the epidermal fats, augmenting the natural barrier. | |
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| Active Ingredients Helpful to Alipic Skin A) Anhydrous Lanolin: one of the most highly regarded ingredients and considered to be an irreplaceable basic ingredient. In its pure form it is completely non-comedogenic (doesn't clog); and being hydrophilic, it retains water" and forms a natural emulsion that protects and softens at the same time. It assimilates well because the composition of lanolin is near to that of the skin's sebum. B) Wheat Germ Oil: contains vitamins A, B, and E combined with other oligo elements and non-saturated fatty acids in their natural form. Active biological substances, vitamins and minerals are among the few things that actually do penetrate the skin. C) Cosbiol; this is drawn from the liver of sharks by hydrogenization. Known for its rich context of vitamins A and D, Cosbiol penetrates better than lanolin and has the nearest affinity to human skin. D) Fletan Oil: this fish liver oil has been used widely in dermatology since World War I. Anti-inflammatory in effect, due to Lecithin, it is rich in natural vitamin A and D and unsaturated fatty acids. E) Carotene in Oil: of vegetable origin, this contains vitamins A and D. It protects the outer layers of the skin and reinforces the resistance of the skin. F) Placenta: this product is rich in biological substances. It does not contain estrogen, but plays a roll similar to it. The product stimulates the revitalization of skin and activates the growth of young cells. It also maintains a constant humidity in the skin, favors its irrigation and nutrition, and intensifies the circulation of the capillary veins and cell respiration. G) Lecithin: this is an ingredient with a regenerating effect that can be compared to that of a real hormone without being one itself. H) Rose Hip Oil: this is a stimulating product. I) Sweet Almond Oil: this is a nourishing product. J) Hyaluronic Acid: this is borrowed from medicine and is one of the best natural moisturizing factors known. K) Collagen: this is a product thatbinds well with water. It holds moisture on the surface of the skin. These are just a few of the high quality raw materials used in nourishing and lubricating creams. Each formula should be perfectly balanced, insuring that individual skin needs can be met without fear of comedogenecity. With the right treatment and the correct products dry skin need never be a problem. In just a few weeks it can be beautiful. | |
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| Factors Contributing to Skin Dryness Since the moisture binding capacity is hampered in the oil dry skin, the dehydrating factors discussed in the section for skin dehydration also apply here. Additional factors causing skin dryness: A) Medication: cold and flu remedies can affect the skin's oil and moisture balance. Other factors include endocrine imbalances such as ovarian and hypo-active thyroid conditions. Acutane causes a shrinkage of the oil glands and as a consequence, drying up of oil. B) Menopause: the changes caused in the endocrine system may contribute to additional skin dryness. Particularly since hot flashes also influence the moisture balance on the skin surface. In any case, the skin tends to produce less oil at the time of menopause and a greater reduction will occur in the following years. C) Make-up: Powdery make-up rapidly absorbs oil and moisture. Concealers can also be drying. | |
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