Glossary of Active Ingredients.
 
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Home > Skin Care Resources > Glossary of Active Ingredients

Glossary of Active Ingredients


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Aloe Vera-Oil ExtractAn oily extract gained from the residue of aloe leafs after processing.

Amino AcidsComponents of the proteins. Nitrogenous carbon acids. There are more than 20 different amino acids, the elementary on is glycin. Ten out of the 20 amino acids are taken up with nutrition, mainly in form of proteins. They are called essential (vital) amino acids. Amino acids are concatenately linked together in the protein snythesis. There are two proteins it the skin with particular large quanity, collagen and keratin. The corneum consist of 58% of keratin, the corium of 50% collagen. The moisture content of the corneum is about 10% that of the corium about 50%.

Apricot Kernel OilIt is gained from the inner part of the apricot kernel (the acutual seed) and is of pale yellow color. It consists mainly of unsaturated fatty acids esterified with glycerin (about 75%) and linolic acid (about 20%). Apricot kernel oil is closely related to almond oil. Like almond oil it has formerly been used to produce precous caring cosmetical oils and creams. Apricot kernel oil is proessed and has the pleasant fragrance of apricots, which bestows fragrance and radiation to the product in which it is used.

Aluminium Allantoinated and Aluminium ChlorhyroxyallantoinatesHas an astrigent effect, stop inflammation, active substance in toners and creams (Allantoin).

AntioxidantsSubstances which prevent the oxidation of oils and fats, for example vitamin E, BHT (Butylhroxytoloul), BHA (Butylhdrocyanisol), Asorbylpalmitate (Vitamin C). All cell walls contain fatty compounds mainly unsaturated fatty acids which mix with oxygen from the respiration and oxidize, which means go rancid. And example from daily life: Oil and butter go rancid if they are exposed to air unpacked. The same happens in the human cell which defends itself with the antioxidants (Vitamin E and B carotene) against the attack of these harmful oxygen compounds, the so-called free radicals. This is only possible if the organism disposes fo sufficient antioxidants. Under stress, environmental influences and in particular UV radiation the organism needs antioxidants in high quality, the supply through nutrition is not sufficient. An ample supply of Vitamin E, nutrition competion with Vitamin E preparations, Vitamin C, B-carotene and daily care with preparations containing Vitamin E is therefore recommended. Cell damages caused by free radicals encourage the aging process. Accroding to the latest research aintioxidant Vitamin E, Vitamin C which catch the aggressive residue of the metabolism (free radicas) increase the life expectancy.

Acerola Fruit AcidAcerola in a tropical fruit with the highest content of vitamin C and is therefore used for high-quality diet nutrition.

Active Substance Gliding RailsFatty acid ester which enable cosmetic active substances to penetrate.

AcetulanINCL: Cetyl Acetate and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol is liquid composed of acetylated lanolin alcohol which serves as active substance gliding rail, emollient and dispersion medium.

AlloxanIs fission products of the uric acid. Alloxan crystals make the skin appear blue. Used in combination with DHA (Dihydroxyaceton) to improve the shade in self-tanning products.

Aluminiumhydroxide, TonerdehyrateCombined with water it forms a mixture like gel for powders and face masks, stabilizes emulsions.

Almond Oil Sweet (Oleum Anygdalarum)A classical oil, known since antiquity and used to produce precious cosmetics. The old Sumerians gave us the first indication for a cream containing almond oil. The oil contains precious fatty acids which give the skin a velvet-like appearance.

Althaea (Hibiskus)Althaea is shrub about 60-150 cm tall with dense hair that feel like velvet. Originally grown in Asia it was planted in the 9th century as a medicinal plant following the orderof "Karl de Grobe". The root contains mucilage, sugar, starch and oil.

Allantoin (Aluminium - allantoinates)Crystalline white powder, has an epithelialising effect on rough cracked skin. Allantoin stimulates new tissue growth in case of scares and therefore the regeneration of the skin and has a keratolic effect (hair, and scalp damages). Makes the skin smooth and supple, frequently used in face and hair tonics.

AerosilIt is a pure pyrogen silicic acid, a thickening agent for oil and water, colloidal silicum dioxide.

Algae ExtractExtract grained from sea algae, used in cosmetics to normalize the moisture content of the skin and to make the horney layer supple.

Aconite Extracts (Extractum Aconiti)Increases the blood circulation, can cause buring and itching sensation.

AHA Fruit Acid, Alpha Hydroxy AcidDiscovered in the USA the fruit acid extract, the so-called AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) became famous for skin care. The acids can derive from fruits, sour milk or sugar cane. The pH value however is important, which has to be well adjusted in case of topical application. AHA have a keratolic affect on the horney layer. Dead and pale cells are loosened and the cell layers below appear more radiant and fresher. They speed up the process of skin renewal and used to reduce the first signs of skin aging. The AHA's have the capability to loosen dead and horney skin cells, to make the skin softer, tighter and to improve the appearance. The reduction of wrinkles and moles are known. It's loosening effect on the cell cement substances which enable the penetration of active substances into the dermis is remarkable. The soft, keratoplastic effect acts against keratosis which occurs during puberty and is an excellent aid for acne treatment. Since the AHA's are a strong remedy and can cause a peeling of the skin the AHA solutions are only produced for professional use to treat hyperkeratosis. In high concentration the AHA's are used by dermatologists to treat dermatitis and very dry skin.

Alcohol (Ethanol)Obtained from fermentation of fruits and roots containing sugar or starch.

Aluminium SilicateKaolin, also called Bentonite for face masks, stabilizes emulsions.

Aluminium StearateStabilizes emulsions, oil-soluble additional substance, forms gel if combined with oils.

Arnica OilThe oil extract from arnica blossoms is mainly used in hair oils and bath extracts, but also in care products. The dosage must be measured carefully, since arnica oil can cause skin irritation (up to 8% according to cosmetic regulations).

Arnica Extract (Flores Arnicae, Arnica Montana)Arnica extract is the alcoholic, glycolic and mainly oily extract of the arnica blossom which grows in many parts of the world, also in the alps and is known as medicinal plant. The ingredients like caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, rutin, hyeroid and isoquercitrin have a stimulating, anti-inflammatory effect on the epidermis and intensify the blood circulation. Therefore they serve many purposes in the cosmetic use. The extracts are especially suitable for the care of normal, oily and sensitive skin. The arnica tincture is subject to declaration.

Althaea Extracts (Hibiscus Sabdariffa)The roots of Althaea are recommended for treatment of irritated, inflammed skin.

Acetic Acid (Acidum Aceticum)Concentrated as "ice acetic" it is a clear caustic liquid with a sour smell. The dilutions are called "acetic essence" if more than 15% acetic acid is contained. Between 3-5% they are called "acetics". Used a concentrated caustic agent to treat worts, if dulited used for cosmetic acetics with an astringent effect.

Abrasive GrainsMainly nylon balls of specific size (peeling products).

Alginate (Alginic Acid)Obtained from seaweed and different brown sea algaes. Structure like cellulose, used a gelling agent, emulsifier, stabilizer, thickener and as a tablet dissolver.

Agar-AgarIs an extract gained from red and brown algaes, a plant thicken agent, a yellow binder used among other things in tooth paste and cosmetics.

Aluminium ChlorhydroxideIs a basic substance for anithidrotics and has and astrigent effect.

Aloe Extract (Aloe Barbadensis)In general called Aloe Gel, the pure sap derived from the aloe leaf, Aloe Vera Miller or Aloe Barbadensis or Aloe Linne. Proteins, enzymes, vitamins and minerals make Aloe Vera ideal component for the skin care on a pure natural basis. Only pure sap is used. Aloe 1:1, Aloe sap concentrate 1:10, Aloe 1:40, Pulvis 1:200 (oily extract, lipoconcentrate).

Abrabic GumIs a water-soluble, completely harmless natural protective colloid and emulsifier.



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Wrinkle Prevention News
Vitamin A, vitamin C , a nutrient known for its importance in the manufacture of collagen, is being touted by some experts as a key player in keeping the complexion smooth. A daily dose of vitamin C of 300 to 500 milligrams is recommended to repair and maintain aging skin.Vitamin E, another free radical-fighting antioxidant, can also prevent skin damage from sun exposure when used topically, say researchers. But is recommend it for post-sun use rather than pre-sun use.

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