Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, is a procedure that was used only in a dermatologist's office. The purpose of this procedure was to achieve younger, smoother, clearer looking skin. It became popular because of the results it delivered with little recovery time and is not as invasive as other procedures like chemical peels, dermabrasion, laser resurfacing, and more. In-office cost of microneedling can range from $200-$700 a session, and requiring three to six visits for optimal results. With devices like Derma Roller, a form of microneedling, this procedure can be done at home for a lot less.
What is a Derma Roller?
A Derma Roller is a handheld mini wheel covered in sterile tiny needles used to create microscopic controlled skin injuries. Derma Rollers are designed with needle depths varying from 0.5 -2 mm. The chart below is a guideline in needle depth used to treat specific issues.
|Transdermal absorption||0.25 mm|
|Shallow wrinkles, scars, UV damage, hyperpigmentation||0.5 mm|
|Hyperpigmentation, sun damage, shallow to deep wrinkles/scars, stretch marks||0.75 - 1 mm|
|Severe scarring or stretch marks (Not recommend at home or on the face)||1.5 - 3 mm|
How Does It Work?
Dermarolling works by rolling the device over your face or body and inserting the tiny needles into your skin. This process creates microscopic wounds in the skin that triggers the body’s natural healing process which stimulates collagen and elastin production and new blood vessels to form.
Benefits of Derma Rolling
Transdermal absorption - Derma rolling creates microchannels to allow better absorption of skincare products, increasing their effectiveness.
Wrinkles - Collagen and elastin production are stimulated with the use of a Derma Roller to help skin naturally fill in wrinkles.
Hyperpigmentation - Derma rolling helps to lighten hyperpigmentation by breaking up melanin clusters. It also allows the skin to absorb treatment products better to improve results.
Scars - It stimulates the repair process by immediately boosting the production of more collagen. The increase in collagen and elastin production helps with repairing skin irregularities.
Stretch marks - The appearance of stretch marks can improve with the use of a Derma Roller by stimulating collagen production and enhancing absorption of stretch mark treatment products.
How to Use a Derma Roller
Step 1: Disinfect the derma roller with a cosmetic alcohol spray.
Step 2: Cleanse and tone your skin.
Step 3: Apply numbing cream if needed. Apply Hyaluronic acid serum or niacinamide serum.
(When used with hyaluronic acid or Niacinamide, the derma roller will drive in hydration into the skin. This can also be accomplished using serum rich sheet mask)
Step 4: Using even, gentle movements, guide the roller across the skin in one direction 6 to 8 times, always lifting off the skin before going over the area again. You will want to repeat the steps vertically, horizontally, and diagonally on each section of the face.
Step 4: Apply a repairing serum or your usual skincare routine
Step 5: Disinfect the derma roller with rubbing alcohol.
How Often to Derma Roll?
Depending on the length of the needle, the chart below is a guideline to how often the procedure should be performed. Make sure you allow the skin to heal and regenerate in between sessions.
|Needle length (millimeters)||How often|
|0.25 mm||every other day|
|0.5 mm||1 to 3 times a week (starting with less)|
|1.0 mm||every 10 to 14 days|
|1.5 mm||once every 3 to 4 weeks|
|2.0 mm||every 6 weeks (avoid this length for home use)|
Is it Painful?
Everyone has different pain tolerance. The pressure applied, the sensitivity of the skin and the size of the needles all determine how painful it will be. Numbing cream can also be used to help with the pain.
Although derma rolling is minimally invasive, some side effects include redness, irritation, minor swelling, and pulsing sensation. Peeling may also start to occur after two to three days.