Microneedling with Hyaluronic Acid Serum or Niacinamide Serum

Microneedling with Hyaluronic Acid Serum or Niacinamide Serum

Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, is a procedure that was used only in a dermatologist's office. The purpose of this procedure was to achieve younger, smoother, clearer looking skin. It became popular because of the results it delivered with little recovery time and is not as invasive as other procedures like chemical peels, dermabrasion, laser resurfacing, and more. In-office cost of microneedling can range from $200-$700 a session, and requiring three to six visits for optimal results. With devices like Derma Roller, a form of microneedling, this procedure can be done at home for a lot less.

What is a Derma Roller?

A Derma Roller is a handheld mini wheel covered in sterile tiny needles used to create microscopic controlled skin injuries. Derma Rollers are designed with needle depths varying from 0.5 -2 mm. The chart below is a guideline in needle depth used to treat specific issues.

Treatment Needle Length
Transdermal absorption 0.25 mm
Shallow wrinkles, scars, UV damage, hyperpigmentation 0.5 mm
Hyperpigmentation, sun damage, shallow to deep wrinkles/scars, stretch marks 0.75 - 1 mm
Severe scarring or stretch marks (Not recommend at home or on the face) 1.5 - 3 mm


How Does It Work?

Dermarolling works by rolling the device over your face or body and inserting the tiny needles into your skin. This process creates microscopic wounds in the skin that triggers the body’s natural healing process which stimulates collagen and elastin production and new blood vessels to form.

Benefits of Derma Rolling

Transdermal absorption - Derma rolling creates microchannels to allow better absorption of skincare products, increasing their effectiveness.

Wrinkles - Collagen and elastin production are stimulated with the use of a Derma Roller to help skin naturally fill in wrinkles.

Hyperpigmentation - Derma rolling helps to lighten hyperpigmentation by breaking up melanin clusters. It also allows the skin to absorb treatment products better to improve results.

Scars - It stimulates the repair process by immediately boosting the production of more collagen. The increase in collagen and elastin production helps with repairing skin irregularities.

Stretch marks - The appearance of stretch marks can improve with the use of a Derma Roller by stimulating collagen production and enhancing absorption of stretch mark treatment products.

How to Use a Derma Roller

Step 1: Disinfect the derma roller with a cosmetic alcohol spray.

Step 2: Cleanse and tone your skin.

Step 3: Apply numbing cream if needed. Apply Hyaluronic acid serum or niacinamide serum.

(When used with hyaluronic acid or Niacinamide, the derma roller will drive in hydration into the skin. This can also be accomplished using serum rich sheet mask)

Step 4: Using even, gentle movements, guide the roller across the skin in one direction 6 to 8 times, always lifting off the skin before going over the area again. You will want to repeat the steps vertically, horizontally, and diagonally on each section of the face.

Step 4: Apply a repairing serum or your usual skincare routine

Step 5: Disinfect the derma roller with rubbing alcohol.

How Often to Derma Roll?

Depending on the length of the needle, the chart below is a guideline to how often the procedure should be performed. Make sure you allow the skin to heal and regenerate in between sessions.

Needle length (millimeters) How often
0.25 mm every other day
0.5 mm 1 to 3 times a week (starting with less)
1.0 mm every 10 to 14 days
1.5 mm once every 3 to 4 weeks
2.0 mm every 6 weeks (avoid this length for home use)

Is it Painful?

Everyone has different pain tolerance. The pressure applied, the sensitivity of the skin and the size of the needles all determine how painful it will be. Numbing cream can also be used to help with the pain.

Microneedling Pain Tolerance

Recovery/Side Effects

Although derma rolling is minimally invasive, some side effects include redness, irritation, minor swelling, and pulsing sensation. Peeling may also start to occur after two to three days.

Before and After of Microneedling

What does Niacinamide do for your skin?

Niacinamide supports the skin barrier and improves texture by making pores look smaller. It also helps balance oil production, and it's suitable for all skin types. Niacinamide helps soothe your skin and keep it moisturized. This skin-restoring ingredient helps reduce the appearance of blemishes and brightens skin. Niacinamide also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B-3, an essential nutrient. Taking niacinamide can help prevent B-3 deficiency. Although more research is needed, topical niacinamide may help treat certain skin conditions, including acne and eczema.

What is Hyaluronic Acid good for?

Hyaluronic acid is a sugar molecule that occurs naturally in the skin and helps to bind water to collagen, trapping it in the skin, so that skin can appear plumper, dewier, and more hydrated. Hyaluronic acid can be used following microneedling, and it's even recommended in some cases to help stimulate collagen. Hyaluronic acid is well known for its skin benefits, especially alleviating dry skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and speeding up wound healing. It can also help relieve joint pain. Moisturizers and serums are two of the most common forms of hyaluronic acid. Use a moisturizer infused with hyaluronic acid at the time when you'd usually moisturize. Ideally, this would be twice a day and always after cleansing, exfoliating, or applying serums. 

Can you use Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid together?

The short answer is yes; you absolutely can use niacinamide and hyaluronic acid together. In fact, this combination can offer a double-whammy of skin hydration as well as a number of other benefits. How do you layer the two? Start by applying hyaluronic acid on your cleansed face to replenish your skin first, and then follow up with niacinamide to regulate excess sebum production. Lastly, lock these active ingredients in with your favorite moisturizer. 

Jan 22nd 2021 Skin Beauty

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