Which is Better: Beta Hydroxy Acid or Alpha Hydroxy Acid?

Beta Hydroxy Acid and Alpha Hydroxy Acid are both popular exfoliating ingredients in skincare products. Both have been used to address wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, acne, and more. Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) isn’t necessarily better than alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and vise versa. It all boils down to your skin type and what skin concerns you’re trying to target. This article will help you decide which is better for you.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s)

BHA’s are oil-soluble acids that get down into pores and dissolve the oil and break apart the debris inside. They are derived from various natural sources. The most common beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid which comes from willow bark. Other BHA’s are beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid. BHA’s has mild antibacterial properties which do not kill acne bacteria. Therefore skin care products with beta hydroxy acid are commonly paired with an antibacterial ingredient to combat acne effectively.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)

AHA’s are naturally occurring in sugarcane and plant sources and are water-soluble. Alpha hydroxy acids are clinically proven to loosen the glue-like substances that hold skin cells together, thus shedding the top layer of dull, damaged skin. Glycolic acid, the most commonly used alpha hydroxy acid in skincare products, is derived from sugarcane and has the smallest hydroxyl acid molecule. That means that it can penetrate faster and deeper into the skin.

How To Choose: AHA or BHA?

Choosing the proper hydroxy acid is based on your skin type and what you’re trying to achieve.

Beta hydroxy acid is ideal for those with normal to oily skin since it’s oil-soluble and can bypass the fats and oils in and on your skin. Skin prone to bumps, clogs, blemishes, and enlarged pores can benefit from BHA’s because it enters the pores and breaks up and removes dead skin cells, oils, and bacteria—all the debris that helps comedones form. Beta hydroxy acid is also good for sloughing off dead skin cells allowing for regrowth of new skin to improve wrinkling, roughness, and pigmentation. Those with sensitive that is looking to address skin aging issues will find that BHA’s are a good alternative as it is well tolerated.

Alpha hydroxy acid is commonly preferred for dry, dull, and aging skin where breakouts are not a problem. AHA’s helps to exfoliate dead skin cells to improve skin texture and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, it accelerates cellular turnover revealing new skin underneath. Alpha hydroxy acids also help with collagen production and decrease the dermal matrix's degradation to reduce the visible signs of sun damage and wrinkles.

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